SIERRA COUNTYBy ANDREW ALEXANDER


Reprinted from Southern New Mexico Magazine,
Volume II, Number 3, Fall 1997.

Published and copyrighted by Red Sky Publishing Co., Inc.;
7440 Arroyo Seco, Las Cruces NM 88011
www.zianet.com/redsky

Southern New Mexico Magazine is circulated at
chambers of commerce, visitors centers, welcome centers, airports, medical offices and various hotels.


From the powerful
Black Range Mountains
in its western corner to the
refreshing Elephant Butte and
Caballo Lakes, this county boasts
cultural, recreational, and economic diversity
that makes it a great place to visit and live.


The Spanish term "sierra" implies "saw tooth" and translates to jagged mountain ranges. Here in South-Central New Mexico, it refers to those that exist on the east and west sides of the Rio Grande River as it winds its way through historic, cultural and beautiful Sierra County.

Here you'll find 4,000-year-old Mogollon and Jornada Mogollon Indian pithouse structures stretching across varied mountainous terrains - a testament to inhabitation. Native American rock art remains in silent compact, adorning many of the predominant landforms. It was here early hunters-gatherers moved from higher to lower elevations in pursuit of game and other resources key to their survival.

But just as travelers of years past discovered Sierra County's attributes, travelers today find a myriad of recreational opportunities ranging from New Mexico's largest lake to ghost towns, and of course hot springs.

Indeed, early Native Americans knew about the healing properties of the hot mineral pools which percolated out of the ground at a place along the Rio Grande that would become known as Truth or Consequences (the county seat).

In later years, the Apache and Europeans alike stopped along the ancient fish-filled Rio Grande River to soak in the 100-plus-degree healing waters. Today the hot mineral springs located along the river still offer a place of healing to weary travelers from all over the world in the form of bath houses and hotels.

Since the creation in 1916 of the largest lake in New Mexico - Elephant Butte - the state park boasts more than 200 miles of shoreline stretching on both sides for more than 40 miles. The lake was selected out of many in the Southwest as the site for the Bassmaster Western Invitational Tournament in 1998. It's no wonder. Truth or Consequences newspapers frequently feature a proud fisherman holding up "the largest fish caught in New Mexico."

The 321-foot-high dam that makes the lake possible quietly collects the Rio Grande water, covering the ruins of Fort McRae and the Spanish village of Placitas de San Jose.

On the discharge side of the dam, the Rio Grande connects Caballo Lake and Percha State Parks. Water sports of all sorts are the joy of those visiting Sierra County - hardly the desolate landscape many visitors anticipate and certainly a contrast to what early Spanish settlers experienced coming from Mexico enroute to Santa Fe.

As historical documents attest, the section of the Camino Real (King's Highway) that passed through Sierra County became known as the Jornada del Muerto, or Journey of Death.

It was the portion of the Camino Real in which settlers veered away from the Rio Grande to avoid contact with populations of non-friendly Indians who inhabited the densely vegetated areas along the Rio Grande. In doing so, settlers were exposed to the ravages of desert heat that took many lives. The survivors reconnected with the river north of Sierra County in the town of Socorro whose name means "help" or "aid."

Sierra County's long association with the Apaches, Southern New Mexico's dominant Native American culture, is told in the naming of some of its small towns. The village of Cuchillo was named after Apache leader Cuchillo Negro and the town of Chise was named after Apache chief Cochise, who frequented the area.

Gold, silver and other mineral-rich discoveries in Sierra County before and after the Civil War put several communities on the map. Places like Kingston, Hillsboro and Chloride popped up supporting an ever-growing need for farming, ranching and mining throughout the mountain ranges.

In the early spring one might venture west on NM 52 and pass through Cuchillo for the Cuchillo Pecan Festival, a fundraiser for the New Mexico Boys and Girls Ranch. The festival brings together artists, entertainers, crafts and the best pecan pies in Sierra County.

A month later the community of Winston puts on its annual Fiesta, complete with parade, arts and crafts, an old fashioned barbecue feast, entertainment, dancing, rodeo and a mountain man competition unlike any in New Mexico. Nestled in the high mountains of Sierra County, both communities are adorned with finely renovated turn-of-the-century buildings, reminding all who visit of a time past.

Chise, Las Placitas and other small villages celebrate their annual fiestas of the patron saints of their respective communities. Families from all over the area bring food and provide entertainment at these celebrations and the public is invited to celebrate the new ecumenical year for the small villages whose residents work year around toward this feast day of their favorite saint.

In the late summer visitors flock to the postcard setting of Hillsboro for the Hillsboro Apple Festival, celebrating the harvest of area apple farmers. Nestled among the folds of the Black Range and the shade of mature cottonwoods, this festival offers a respite from the desert heat.

Sierra's county seat of Truth or Consequences, abutting the communities of Williamsburg and Elephant Butte, hosts the Ralph Edwards Fiesta, Balloon Regatta, Chili Cook-off, County Fair and many other events.

Water-related activities go on throughout the year. The 60-year-old downtown area has small shops, galleries and restaurants as well as a variety of mineral hot spring establishments. Parks, golf courses, tennis courts, museums, art galleries, gift shops, restaurants and a bowling alley provide a number of options for the visitor.

It's quite common to see bison roaming on the open ranges of the Ladder Ranch, a project of Ted Turner and Jane Fonda Turner along highways west of Truth or Consequences. Dedicated to preservation, the Turners have purchased two of the largest Land Grants in New Mexico and continue to preserve the natural beauty of those environments. Meanwhile Sierra County is beginning to experience growth and migration of families from all over the states, in search of that ideal climate that Sierra County communities offer.

With its history rooted in the journey of the Rio Grande River, Sierra County offers New Mexico the one commodity that the desert doesn't allow - water. For those who love water, the lakes at Elephant Butte and Caballo are an oasis. And Sierra County itself is a thriving, friendly part of Southern New Mexico that's worth a second look.